Standing on the Takatu River Bridge, you're in one of the most unique places in the Americas - the only land border where traffic must switch from driving on the left to driving on the right. On one side lies Lethem, the dusty capital of Guyana's Region Nine; on the other, Bonfim in Brazil's Roraima state. This is a frontier in the truest sense, where two nations, three languages, and countless cultures intersect on the edge of one of Earth's last great wildernesses.
Lethem is not your typical tourist destination - and that's precisely its appeal. This is cowboy country, where vaqueros still work the vast cattle ranches of the Rupununi savannahs, where the legendary Kanuku Mountains rise on the horizon, and where every Easter weekend, the entire region transforms for the spectacular Rupununi Rodeo. Whether you're crossing into Brazil, seeking adventure in pristine wilderness, or simply want to experience a place where borders are more suggestion than barrier, Lethem delivers an authentically frontier experience.
The Character of a Frontier Town
Walk down Lethem's Main Street - locally known as the Brazilian Quarter - and you'll immediately sense you're somewhere unusual. Shop signs display both English and Portuguese. Hardware stores sit beside electronics stalls stocked with Brazilian goods. The smell of churrasco (Brazilian barbecue) drifts from restaurants, while nearby vendors sell traditional Guyanese pepperpot. You might overhear a conversation switching effortlessly between English, Portuguese, and Wapichan or Macushi - the languages of the Indigenous peoples who have called this land home for millennia.
English
Official language
Portuguese
Brazilian influence
Wapichan
Indigenous (South)
Macushi
Indigenous (North)
The town itself is modest - simple buildings, cashew trees lining dusty streets, and a laid-back atmosphere that reflects its remote location. But Lethem punches above its weight. Before the pandemic, the town would see 10,000 to 15,000 visitors daily, with numbers reaching 20,000 during peak periods. Most were Brazilians crossing for shopping, drawn by favorable exchange rates and goods unavailable back home.
Named after Sir Gordon James Lethem, Governor of British Guiana from 1941-47, the town has evolved from a remote outpost to the commercial hub of Region Nine. The 2009 opening of the Takatu Bridge was transformative, replacing the unreliable ferry with a permanent link to Brazil and opening the floodgates for trade and tourism.
Crossing to Brazil: The Complete Guide
The Takatu River Bridge (Ponte do Rio Tacutu in Portuguese) connects Lethem to the Brazilian town of Bonfim in Roraima state. Built by Brazil at a cost of US$5 million as part of the Initiative for the Integration of Regional Infrastructure of South America (IIRSA), this 230-meter steel and concrete structure replaced seasonal ferry services with year-round access.
The Switchover Bridge
The Takatu Bridge is the only instance in the Americas where drivers must change from driving on the left (Guyana) to driving on the right (Brazil). A clever crossover flyover on the Guyanese side accomplishes this safely.
Border Crossing Procedures
- Exit Guyana Immigration - Located in Lethem before the bridge. Get your passport stamped for exit. Have your return flight/bus ticket ready if asked.
- Cross the Bridge - The bridge itself is toll-free and open 24/7, though border posts only operate during official hours.
- Enter Brazil (Policia Federal) - Located in Bonfim. Present passport, proof of yellow fever vaccination, and any required visa. Fill out entry card.
- Returning to Guyana - Reverse the process. Brazilian exit stamp, cross bridge, Guyana entry stamp.
Border Hours
Official border posts operate 8:00 AM - 6:00 PM daily. While the bridge is technically accessible 24/7, you cannot complete immigration procedures outside these hours. Plan crossings during daylight.
Visa Requirements
Your visa needs depend on nationality:
- US, Canadian, Australian, Japanese, Mexican citizens: Require Brazil visas - cannot be obtained at the border
- UK, EU citizens: Generally visa-free for tourism (90 days)
- CARICOM nationals: Check current requirements
Important: Get Your Visa Before Lethem
If you need a Brazil visa, obtain it at the Brazilian Embassy in Georgetown (several business days required) or at the Brazilian Consulate in Lethem before attempting to cross. Many nationalities can now apply for e-visas online - check before your trip.
Yellow Fever Requirement
Brazil requires proof of yellow fever vaccination for entry from Guyana. Shots are available at health facilities on both sides of the border, but it's better to get vaccinated at least 10 days before travel for full effectiveness.
Transportation from the Border
| Route | Transport | Cost | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Lethem to Bonfim | Shared taxi | 2,000 GYD/person | Fixed rate, ~15 minutes |
| Bonfim to Boa Vista | Daily bus | 40 BRL | Departs 7am only |
| Bonfim to Boa Vista | Shared taxi | 50 BRL/person | Wait for 6 passengers |
| Bonfim to Boa Vista | Private taxi | 300 BRL | Anytime, ~2 hours |
Currency Exchange
Exchange money before crossing - facilities are limited on the Brazilian side. Near Lethem's main roundabout, several shops (including Hua Long, a Chinese-owned store) exchange Guyanese Dollars for Brazilian Reais. Rates fluctuate, so compare a few places. In Lethem itself, shops accept GYD, BRL, and often USD.
Day Trip Tip
You can easily do a day trip to Bonfim - have breakfast in Lethem, explore and lunch in Brazil, then return for dinner. This gives you a taste of both countries without overnight complications.
The Rupununi Rodeo: Easter's Big Event
Rupununi Ranchers' Rodeo
Every Easter weekend, Lethem transforms into the heart of cowboy country for Guyana's most spectacular cultural event.
For over 60 years, the Rupununi Ranchers' Rodeo has been the highlight of the Guyanese calendar. What began as an annual gathering for ranchers to round up cattle has evolved into a beloved national festival that draws thousands from across Guyana, Brazil, and beyond.
What to Expect
- Bull riding - Watch fearless cowboys attempt to stay mounted on bucking bulls
- Barrel racing - High-speed horseback competitions around obstacle courses
- Bronco riding - Traditional rodeo events showcasing horsemanship
- Indigenous performances - Traditional Wapichan and Macushi dances
- Local cuisine - Traditional foods and craft beverages
- Artisan crafts - Handmade Indigenous beadwork, baskets, and leatherwork
- Live music and parties - The "carnival of the savannahs" runs dusk till dawn
Recent additions include motorcycle racing and dune buggy racing, plus VIP experiences for those wanting premium views. The 2025 Rodeo ran under the theme "Legendary Stories, Legendary Rides," honoring the pioneers who shaped Rupununi's cowboy culture.
Book Months Ahead
Hotels in Lethem book out months in advance for Easter weekend. Flights fill up quickly. If you want to experience the Rodeo, start planning at least 3-4 months before Easter.
Getting to Lethem
By Air
Trans Guyana Airways operates the only scheduled flights between Georgetown (Ogle Airport) and Lethem.
- Frequency: Up to 3 flights daily (21 per week)
- Flight time: Approximately 1 hour
- Aircraft: Beech 1900D
- Cost: $150-200 USD one-way (prices vary)
- Baggage: Combined cabin/checked limit of 9kg (20 lbs)
- Schedule: Earliest 7:30am, latest 3:00pm departure
Pack Light
The strict 9kg baggage limit on Trans Guyana flights is enforced. Pack only essentials and wear your heaviest clothes on the plane. Excess baggage fees apply.
By Road: The Linden-Lethem Trail
The overland journey from Georgetown to Lethem is an adventure in itself - 450 kilometers of unpaved road through some of Guyana's most spectacular scenery. The road passes through dense rainforest, crosses numerous creeks, and emerges onto the vast Rupununi savannahs.
- Distance: ~450km from Georgetown
- Time: 10-14 hours (longer in rainy season)
- Minibuses: Depart Georgetown ~6pm, arrive Lethem next day around noon
- Cost: Approximately $5,000-8,000 GYD
- Key stops: Linden (last major fuel), Mabura Hill, Annai, Iwokrama
Fuel Warning
Fill up in Linden - the gas station at Km 58 is the last reliable fuel for approximately 300km until reaching Lethem. Running out of fuel in the interior is a serious situation.
Road Conditions & Future Improvements
The Linden-Lethem road is currently unpaved and challenging, especially during the rainy season (May-August). A 4x4 vehicle is recommended, and the road becomes impassable in some sections during heavy rains.
Good news: The Guyanese government is upgrading the entire route to an all-weather tarmac road. The first phase from Linden to Mabura Hill is advancing quickly. Once completed, the journey will take approximately 4 hours instead of 12+, transforming access to the interior and boosting trade with Brazil.
Where to Stay in Lethem
Fullworks (FW) Rupununi Eco Hotel
Lethem's most upscale option, committed to sustainable tourism with solar power, rainwater harvesting, and organic gardens. Features the Anteater Restaurant and Bar, infinity pool, spa treatments, and stunning savannah views.
From $93 USD/night
Takutu Hotel
One of Lethem's established accommodations, near the airstrip on the main road. Air-conditioned rooms, pleasant outdoor garden with bar, and clean dining room with decent food. Good for early morning departures.
From $60 USD/night
Adventure Guianas Hotel & Courtyard (Hotel Toucanna)
Located at 3 Tabatinga Drive, overlooking the Kanuku Mountains. Offers a serene atmosphere for experiencing the cultural diversity of the Guyana-Brazil frontier.
From $50 USD/night
Budget Options
Several guesthouses and budget hotels line the main road, including Savannah Inn, Kanuku Lodge Hotel, and Ori Hotel. Expect basic rooms with air conditioning, starting from around $8,000 GYD (~$40 USD) per night.
From $40 USD/night
Budget Tip
Accommodation in Bonfim, Brazil can be cheaper than Lethem (around 80 BRL/night negotiable). If you're comfortable with Portuguese and have your visa sorted, staying across the border is an option.
Brazilian Shopping: What to Buy
Cross-border shopping is a major draw for both Guyanese and Brazilians. The Brazilian Quarter in Lethem stocks goods from Brazil at competitive prices, while Bonfim offers an even wider selection.
Popular Purchases
- Electronics - Phones, tablets, appliances (check compatibility)
- Clothing - Brazilian brands, shoes, sportswear
- Bicycles - Popular and cheaper than Georgetown
- Hardware - Tools, building materials
- Food products - Brazilian snacks, beverages, specialties
- Beer - Nova Schin and other Brazilian brands
Lethem Market
The Central Market comes alive on weekends with fresh produce, smoked meats, spices, and stalls run by both local and Brazilian traders. It's the best place to experience Lethem's daily rhythm. Look for:
- Indigenous crafts - Wapichan and Macushi beadwork, baskets, leatherwork
- Bush medicines - Traditional remedies
- Local snacks - Cassava products, tasso (dried meat)
Artisan Crafts
Next to the Takutu Hotel is a small establishment selling Amerindian crafts with unique items - but hours are irregular. The History Artisan and Information Centre near the Rodeo grounds is another good option.
Food and Nightlife
Lethem's dining scene reflects its frontier character - a fusion of Guyanese, Brazilian, and Indigenous cuisines.
Restaurants
- Wayka's Churrascaria - Authentic Brazilian barbecue
- Restaurante Brasileiro / Mixtura Brasilira - Brazilian buffet experience
- Churrascaria e Pizzaria Savannah Brasil - Brazilian BBQ and pizza
- Ravi's Restaurant & Bar - Indian flavors
- Pam's Creole Stop / Betty's Creole Corner - Traditional Guyanese
- Top Roast House - Local cuisine
- Acai Point - Tropical acai ice cream
Bars and Nightlife
Lethem has a relaxed nightlife scene centered around hotel bars and a few dedicated spots:
- FW Rupununi Eco Hotel Bar - Upscale option with wines, craft beers, cocktails
- Takutu Hotel Bar - Casual outdoor garden setting
- Jerries - Recently returned establishment with bar and restaurant
Just outside town at St. Ignatius Village, Ariwa Beach on the Takatu River offers caipirinhas, local lunches, and swimming - a perfect day escape.
Try the Local Specialties
Pepperpot (Guyana's national dish), tasso (dried meat), farine (cassava flour), and parakari (traditional cassava beverage) are authentic tastes of the region.
Day Trips and Adventures
Kanuku Mountains
Rising dramatically from the Rupununi savannahs, the Kanuku Mountains are one of Earth's least explored places - a biodiversity hotspot harboring jaguars, harpy eagles, and countless endemic species.
- Schomburgk's Peak - Multi-day trek to the plateau with sunrise over the savannah
- Kumu Falls - Day trip option with swimming and birding
- Wildlife expeditions - Guided treks searching for Cock-of-the-Rock, rare mammals
Hire a Local Guide
The Kanuku Mountains are remote and challenging. Most experiences are multi-day expeditions requiring proper planning, guides, and equipment. Don't attempt solo exploration.
Rupununi Ranches
The vast cattle ranches of the Rupununi offer authentic vaquero (cowboy) experiences:
- Dadanawa Ranch - Once the largest ranch in South America, 4-7 hours south of Lethem. Rustic accommodation, cattle work, birding, petroglyphs
- Karanambu Ranch - Famous for giant river otter research and the late Diane McTurk's conservation work
- Waikin Ranch, Saddle Mountain - Working ranches with tourism experiences
Indigenous Communities
The South Rupununi is Wapichan territory - 21 villages and approximately 9,000 Indigenous people. Communities welcome respectful visitors:
- St. Ignatius Village - Adjacent to Lethem, mixed Wapichan/Macushi community
- Aishalton, Karaudarnau - South Rupununi Wapichan villages
- Maiworok Festival (September) - Wapichan harvest celebration with traditional dances
Community visits offer insights into cassava processing, handicraft making, and sustainable living practices maintained for centuries.
Nearby Attractions
- Ariwa Beach - Swimming and relaxation on the Takatu River at St. Ignatius
- Moco Moco Falls - Waterfall excursion via Sky Valley Tours
- Bonfim, Brazil - Day trip across the border for Brazilian food and atmosphere
Explore the Rupununi
From cowboy ranches to ancient rainforests, the Rupununi offers adventures found nowhere else on Earth.
Rupununi GuideSafety Considerations
Lethem is generally safer than Georgetown, with a relaxed, small-town atmosphere. However, standard travel precautions apply:
- Avoid displaying wealth - Keep jewelry and expensive electronics out of sight
- Don't walk alone at night - Stick to lit areas and main roads
- Secure belongings - Use hotel safes and keep valuables close
- Carry cash - ATMs are unreliable; bring sufficient funds from Georgetown
- Confirm transportation - Pre-arrange transfers, especially for flights
Border Area Advisory
While the Guyana-Brazil border at Lethem is safe and well-used, the distant Guyana-Venezuela border (not near Lethem) has security concerns. The US State Department recommends caution within 160km of Venezuela. Lethem is not affected by this advisory.
Best Time to Visit
| Season | Months | Conditions |
|---|---|---|
| Dry Season (Best) | October - March | Clear roads, comfortable heat (25-30C), best wildlife viewing |
| Transition | April, September | Moderate rains, still accessible. Easter Rodeo in April. |
| Rainy Season (Avoid) | May - August | Heavy rains, muddy/impassable roads, limited activities |
| Optimal | February - March | Driest, excellent conditions, pre-Rodeo availability |
Practical Information
Money
- Currency: Guyanese Dollar (GYD), Brazilian Real (BRL), and USD accepted
- ATMs: Available but unreliable - bring cash from Georgetown
- Credit cards: Rarely accepted outside major hotels
- Daily budget: $30-60 USD for budget travel, $100+ for comfort
Communications
- Mobile coverage: Digicel and GTT have coverage in Lethem town
- Internet: Available at hotels; speeds vary
- Brazilian SIM: Consider picking up a Claro or Vivo SIM in Bonfim if traveling to Brazil
Health
- Yellow fever vaccination: Required for Brazil entry, recommended for Guyana
- Malaria: Risk exists - take antimalarials and use repellent
- Hospital: Lethem Regional Hospital for emergencies; serious cases require Georgetown
- Pharmacies: Frontier Pharmacy and others on main road
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I cross the border from Lethem to Brazil?
Cross via the Takatu River Bridge connecting Lethem to Bonfim, Brazil. The bridge is toll-free. Get your exit stamp at Guyana Immigration, cross the bridge, then get your entry stamp at Brazilian Federal Police. Border posts operate 8am-6pm. You'll need a valid passport, and some nationalities require a Brazil visa obtained in advance.
When is the Rupununi Rodeo in Lethem?
The Rupununi Ranchers' Rodeo takes place every Easter weekend in Lethem. This 60+ year tradition features bull riding, barrel racing, bronco riding, Indigenous performances, traditional foods, and a carnival atmosphere. Hotels book up months in advance, so plan early if attending.
How do I get to Lethem from Georgetown?
Two options: Fly with Trans Guyana Airways (1 hour, 3 daily flights, around $150-200 USD one-way) or take the overland route via the Linden-Lethem road (450km unpaved, 10-14 hours by minibus, departing Georgetown around 6pm). The road is being upgraded but currently requires 4x4 during rainy season.
What currency is used in Lethem?
Lethem accepts Guyanese Dollars (GYD), Brazilian Reais (BRL), and sometimes US Dollars. Money changers near the main roundabout exchange GYD to BRL. ATMs exist but can be unreliable, so bring sufficient cash from Georgetown. Credit cards are rarely accepted outside major hotels.
What is there to do in Lethem besides crossing to Brazil?
Lethem offers access to the Kanuku Mountains for trekking and wildlife, day trips to Kumu Falls and Moco Moco Falls, visits to Wapichan and Macushi Indigenous communities, relaxing at Ariwa Beach on the Takatu River, and exploring working cattle ranches like Dadanawa. The town itself has a vibrant market and Brazilian-influenced dining scene.
Is Lethem safe for tourists?
Lethem is generally safe for tourists, though standard precautions apply. Avoid displaying wealth, don't walk alone at night, and keep belongings secure. The area is more relaxed than Georgetown. The main concerns are related to the remote location - ensure you have adequate supplies, cash, and travel arrangements confirmed before arrival.
What is the best time to visit Lethem?
The dry season from October to March is best, with February-March being optimal for comfortable travel and wildlife viewing. Easter weekend is the peak time for the Rupununi Rodeo but requires early booking. Avoid May-August when heavy rains can make roads impassable and outdoor activities difficult.
Do I need a visa to cross into Brazil from Lethem?
Visa requirements depend on your nationality. US, Canadian, Australian, Japanese, and Mexican citizens need visas for Brazil, which cannot be obtained at the border. Apply at the Brazilian Embassy in Georgetown or the Brazilian Consulate in Lethem before crossing. Many nationalities can now apply for e-visas online. Proof of yellow fever vaccination is required for entry into Brazil.
Last updated: January 2026. For help planning your Lethem adventure or Rupununi exploration, browse our Rupununi experiences or contact us.