You've been planning this trip for months. Maybe years. The flight is booked, the suitcases are coming out of storage, and that familiar mix of excitement and anxiety is building in your chest.
You're going home.
But "home" is complicated when you've been away for 10, 20, or 30 years. The country you left isn't the country you're returning to. Your family has changed. You've changed. And somewhere between the Toronto cold or the New York hustle, you've built a whole other life while still carrying Guyana in your heart.
This guide is for you - the Guyanese diaspora member who is coming home to visit. Not as a tourist discovering Guyana for the first time, but as someone returning to a place that shaped who you are, even if it no longer feels entirely familiar.
The Emotional Reality of Coming Home
Let's start with something no travel guide talks about: the feelings.
When that plane touches down at Cheddi Jagan International Airport and the humid air hits you as you step off, something shifts. The smells, the sounds, the quality of the light - it all floods back. You might find yourself unexpectedly emotional. That's normal. That's okay.
But alongside the nostalgia comes a strange disorientation. The roads have changed. Buildings you remember are gone. New malls and hotels stand where there used to be empty lots. And the people - family members who were children when you left are now adults with children of their own.
Give Yourself Grace
Returning after years away can trigger a complex mix of emotions: joy, grief, guilt, confusion, and belonging all at once. Don't expect yourself to feel one way. Allow space for all of it. Many diaspora members report feeling like strangers in their own homeland - this is a common experience, not a personal failing.
What People Back Home Want You to Know (But Won't Say)
Your family is excited to see you. They've probably been counting down the days. But there are some unspoken dynamics worth understanding:
- They've been living here the whole time. Avoid constantly comparing Guyana to "back in foreign." Locals aren't just "behind" or "doing it wrong" - things work differently here, and that's okay.
- They've seen others come and go. Many Guyanese have watched waves of diaspora members return with big plans, stay a few weeks, criticize everything, and then leave when things get hard. This creates a certain skepticism.
- Life here has its own rhythm. Things move at a different pace. The "efficiency" you're used to abroad doesn't always apply. Practice patience and flexibility.
- They might not tell you their struggles. Family may downplay difficulties to avoid worrying you or asking for help. Create space for honest conversations.
What Has Changed: Guyana in 2026
If you haven't been back in a few years, prepare yourself: Guyana has transformed dramatically. The oil boom that began in 2020 has made this one of the world's fastest-growing economies, and the physical landscape reflects it.
What's Different
- Modern malls everywhere (Giftland, MovieTowne, Amazonia)
- International chains: Starbucks, KFC, Pizza Hut, Hard Rock Cafe
- Massive road construction and new highways
- High-rise hotels and apartment buildings
- Traffic congestion much worse
- Prices significantly higher
- More cars on the road than ever
- New Demerara River crossing underway
- Improved airport facilities
- More restaurants and nightlife options
What's the Same
- The warmth and hospitality of the people
- Family is still everything
- The food - still incredible
- The heat and humidity
- Stabroek and Bourda Market bustle
- Seawall liming culture
- Religious and cultural diversity
- The pace of life outside Georgetown
- Music and celebration culture
- The Demerara River at sunset
By the Numbers
Guyana's oil production reached 900,000 barrels per day by end of 2025 - up from 120,000 in 2020. GDP growth has averaged over 40% annually. The government's oil revenue in 2025 was approximately US$2.5 billion - for a country of 800,000 people. This wealth is visible in the construction boom happening everywhere.
Prepare for Sticker Shock
One of the biggest surprises for returning diaspora members: Guyana is not as cheap as it used to be. The oil boom has driven up prices across the board. Don't expect the bargains you remember from your last visit years ago.
- Restaurant meals at nice establishments can rival Toronto or New York prices
- Imported goods are expensive due to shipping costs
- Accommodation costs have risen significantly
- Uber/taxi fares, especially from the airport, have increased
Customs, Duties, and Bringing Goods
This is the practical stuff everyone wants to know. How much can you bring? What's duty-free? Will customs give you trouble?
Duty-Free Allowance
| Category | Allowance | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Personal goods | US$200 duty-free | For general travelers |
| Alcohol | 1 liter | Must be 18+ |
| Tobacco | 200 cigarettes or 50 cigars | Must be 18+ |
| Re-migrants | Extended exemptions | Apply at Ministry of Foreign Affairs |
Re-Migrant Exemptions
If you're returning to reside in Guyana (not just visiting), you may qualify for significant tax exemptions on household effects and even a vehicle. You must apply within 6 months of return at the Ministry of Foreign Affairs. Qualifying re-migrants can import vehicles duty-free, though restrictions apply on selling for 3-5 years. Contact the Guyana Revenue Authority for current details.
What You Can and Cannot Bring
Allowed:
- Packaged and processed foods
- Cooked/frozen meats (in checked luggage)
- Electronics for personal use
- Clothing and personal items
- Medications (bring prescription documentation)
- Baby formula and supplies
Restricted or Prohibited:
- Fresh fruits and vegetables (especially native ones)
- Raw meats and fish
- Plants and seeds without permits
- Firearms and ammunition (require special permits)
- More than US$10,000 in cash (must declare)
Best Gifts to Bring From Abroad
The barrel culture is real, and family expectations can be high. Focus on items that are expensive, hard to find, or significantly cheaper abroad.
Electronics
Smartphones, tablets, headphones, smartwatches. These are highly valued and often much cheaper abroad.
Brand-Name Clothing
Nike, Adidas, name-brand shoes, jeans. Quality clothing at reasonable prices is hard to find locally.
Vitamins & Medications
Multivitamins, supplements, over-the-counter medications. Much cheaper abroad and widely appreciated.
Toiletries & Cosmetics
Quality skincare, perfumes, hair products. Brand-name items are expensive or unavailable.
Children's Items
Toys, school supplies, clothes, shoes. If family has kids, these are always appreciated.
Small Appliances
Hair dryers, blenders, pressure cookers. Note: Guyana uses 110V/60Hz like North America.
Specialty Foods
Cheese, chocolates, specialty snacks, cake mixes - packaged goods that travel well.
Computer Accessories
USB drives, laptop bags, external hard drives, cables. Tech accessories are pricey locally.
Pro Tip: Ask First
Before packing a barrel's worth of goods, actually ask your family what they need. Preferences and availability have changed. What was impossible to find 10 years ago might be in every store now. A quick WhatsApp conversation can save you luggage space and money.
Managing Family Expectations and Obligations
This is perhaps the most delicate topic for diaspora members. The assumption that "foreign" means "wealthy" persists, and family may have expectations about gifts, money, and how you'll spend your time.
Setting Boundaries with Love
- Communicate before you arrive. Let family know your visit duration and that you want to balance family time with seeing the country.
- Be honest about your finances. Living abroad is expensive. You're not necessarily rich just because you have a foreign address.
- It's okay to say no. You can't please everyone or solve every problem. Give what you can with an open heart, but don't bankrupt yourself.
- Plan some "you" time. It's okay to take a day trip or need a break from the intensity of family gatherings.
The Family Time Balance
Many diaspora visitors get "trapped" at family homes, spending their entire trip in the living room catching up with an endless stream of relatives. If you want to actually see Guyana, build it into your plans upfront. "On Thursday we're going to Kaieteur - anyone want to come?" is easier than trying to escape once you're there.
Money Matters
There may be requests for financial help - for school fees, medical bills, home repairs, or emergencies. Some thoughts:
- Decide before your trip what you can afford to give
- It's okay to help with a specific need rather than give cash
- You're not obligated to solve generational problems in one visit
- Consider setting up regular small support rather than large one-time gifts if you want to help long-term
Balancing Tourism with Family Time
You're not just visiting family - you're returning to your homeland. Give yourself permission to experience it.
Must-Do Experiences for Returning Guyanese
- Kaieteur Falls: If you've never seen it, or it's been decades, make this happen. It's even more powerful than you remember.
- Seawall at sunset: Some things never change. Grab a Banks, some pholourie, and watch the sun go down.
- Stabroek Market: The organized chaos, the smells, the energy. It's still the heart of Georgetown.
- A proper cook-up or metemgee: Made by someone who knows what they're doing.
- Visit your childhood neighborhood: Walk the streets, find your old school, see what's changed.
- The new malls: Yes, they're "foreign" feeling, but experiencing Giftland or MovieTowne is part of seeing modern Guyana.
Taking the Next Generation Home
If you're bringing children or grandchildren who were born abroad, this trip takes on special meaning. You're not just visiting - you're showing them where they come from.
Tips for Traveling with Foreign-Born Kids
- Prepare them for the heat: Air conditioning isn't everywhere, and the humidity is intense.
- Explain family dynamics: They'll meet dozens of "aunties" and "uncles" who may not be blood relatives.
- Be patient with food: They may not immediately love pepperpot or cook-up. Give them time.
- Let them experience it: Don't shield them from the real Guyana - the markets, the roads, the power outages. This is their heritage.
- Take photos at meaningful places: Your childhood home, your parents' graves, family land. These will matter later.
- Arrange time with cousins their age: Building connections with the next generation back home.
Reconnecting with Childhood Places
Some of the most powerful moments of your trip may be the quiet ones: standing in front of your old house, walking through your primary school, visiting the church where you were christened.
Be prepared: some places won't be there anymore. Georgetown has changed dramatically. Buildings have been torn down, neighborhoods have transformed. The tamarind tree you climbed as a child might be gone.
But other things remain. The way the rain sounds on a zinc roof. The call of the kiskadee at dawn. The particular green of the cane fields. These sensory memories can hit you unexpectedly and powerfully.
Document Your Visit
Take photos and videos, not just of tourist sites, but of everyday moments. Record your elderly relatives telling stories. Photograph family documents and photos. These become priceless as years pass.
Food You've Been Craving
Where to Find What You're Missing
That roti from the lady on the corner. Your grandmother's pepperpot. The specific taste of Guyanese Chinese food. Here's where to get your fix:
- Roti and curry: Shanta's (Camp Street) is legendary. Also try roadside vendors in Kitty and Campbellville.
- Pepperpot: Best from family, but hotels serve it at Christmas. Oasis Cafe does a good version.
- Cook-up Rice: Saturday special at Bourda Market stalls. Also most local restaurants.
- Pholourie and chutney: Stabroek Market, any Seawall vendor, or Berbice for the best.
- Chinese food (Guyanese style): New Thriving Restaurant, or any of the Chinese restaurants in Campbellville.
- Black pudding and souse: Saturday morning at Bourda Market.
- Metemgee: Ask family to make it, or try local restaurants in the mornings.
- Egg ball, pine tarts, salara: Any bakery - try Nigel's Bakery or bakeries on Regent Street.
What to Stock Up On to Bring Back
The reverse barrel - filling your suitcase with Guyanese goods to take back abroad. Here's what's worth the luggage space:
Essential Guyanese Products to Bring Home
- Cassareep: Essential for making proper pepperpot. Look for Pomeroon brand.
- Pepper sauce: Homemade or local brands. Wiri wiri pepper sauce is gold.
- Cassava bread: Wrapped well, it travels okay. Tastes like home.
- Local seasonings: Green seasoning, curry powder, garam masala.
- Rum: XM or El Dorado. Up to 1 liter duty-free (check your destination's limits).
- Coffee: Rupununi coffee if you can find it.
- Tamarind balls and local sweets: Pack carefully to avoid a mess.
- Craft items: Amerindian basketwork, woodcarvings from the markets.
- Golden Arrow fabric: If you sew or know someone who does.
Check Destination Customs
Before packing food items, check what your destination country allows. Canada, USA, and UK have strict rules about bringing in food products. Cooked items and commercially sealed products are usually okay. Fresh or raw items often are not.
Money: Currency and Payments
| Topic | Details |
|---|---|
| Exchange Rate | Approximately 209 GYD = 1 USD (stable throughout 2025) |
| USD Acceptance | Widely accepted at hotels, malls, and tourist establishments |
| Best Rates | Cambios (currency exchange) and banks. Avoid informal exchanges. |
| Credit Cards | Accepted at malls, hotels, and larger restaurants. Visa/Mastercard preferred. |
| ATMs | Available at banks and malls. Some dispense both GYD and USD. |
| Tip | Pay in GYD for better rates at local establishments. Use USD at tourist spots. |
Money Tips
Bring a mix of small USD bills ($1, $5, $10, $20) and get local currency for markets and street food. Cambios near Stabroek Market often have competitive rates. Always count your money before leaving the exchange counter.
Phone and Data: Staying Connected
Getting a local SIM card is almost always better than paying international roaming fees. Guyana has the most expensive mobile data in South America, but it's still far cheaper than roaming.
Your Options
- Digicel: SIM cards available at the airport for ~2000 GYD (~$10 USD). Slightly better 4G coverage. eSIM available.
- GTT: SIM cards for 1500-2000 GYD at stores (not at airport). More plan options.
- eSIM: Digicel and providers like Airalo offer eSIM options if your phone supports it. Convenient if you don't want to swap SIMs.
Coverage Reality
Coverage is good in Georgetown, coastal areas, and major tourist destinations. Don't expect signal in the deep interior or rainforest. If you're going to Kaieteur or the Rupununi, let family know you'll be out of contact.
Navigating Georgetown Traffic
If you remember Georgetown as a place you could easily drive around, adjust your expectations. Traffic congestion has become a major issue, fueled by the oil boom and thousands of new vehicles on roads that weren't designed for them.
What to Expect
- Rush hour is brutal: 7-9 AM and 4-7 PM. Plan around it.
- East Bank is particularly congested: The route to/from the airport can take much longer than expected.
- Construction everywhere: New roads and the gas-to-energy project mean detours and delays.
- Aggressive driving: Tailgating, sudden stops, and creative lane usage. Stay alert.
- Left-side driving: If you've been driving on the right for years, take it slow.
Driving Safety
Guyana's traffic fatality rate is higher than North America's. Seatbelts are required by law. If you're not comfortable driving, use taxis or hire a driver. It's worth the peace of mind.
Practical Checklist Before You Go
Pre-Trip Essentials
- Valid passport (at least 6 months validity)
- Confirm visa requirements if you've changed citizenship
- Travel insurance with medical coverage
- Prescription medications with documentation
- Copies of important documents (digital and physical)
- Notify your bank of travel plans
- Small USD bills for cambio and tips
- Light, breathable clothing for the heat
- Rain jacket or umbrella
- Mosquito repellent
- Sunscreen
- Gifts for family (see our guide above)
- Empty luggage space for Guyanese goods to bring back
- Phone charger (Guyana uses 110V like North America)
- Patience, flexibility, and an open heart
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the duty-free allowance when visiting Guyana?
For general travelers, personal goods not exceeding US$200 in value are duty-free. Alcohol is limited to 1 liter, and tobacco to 200 cigarettes or 50 cigars. Qualifying re-migrants returning to reside in Guyana may be eligible for extended exemptions through the Ministry of Foreign Affairs.
What gifts should I bring for family in Guyana?
Focus on items that are expensive or hard to find locally: electronics (phones, tablets, headphones), brand-name clothing and shoes, quality toiletries and cosmetics, vitamins and supplements, over-the-counter medications, and children's items. Always ask family what they actually need before packing.
Should I get a local SIM card or use roaming?
Get a local SIM. Even though Guyana has expensive data rates, they're far cheaper than international roaming. Digicel sells SIMs at the airport for ~2000 GYD. GTT cards are available in town for 1500-2000 GYD. Both offer 4G in urban areas.
Is USD accepted in Guyana?
Yes, US dollars are widely accepted at hotels, malls, restaurants, and tourist establishments. However, you'll get better value paying in Guyanese dollars at local businesses. The exchange rate is approximately 209 GYD to 1 USD. Use cambios or banks for the best rates.
What Guyanese products should I bring back abroad?
Essential items include cassareep (for pepperpot), pepper sauce (especially wiri wiri), local seasonings, cassava bread, rum (XM or El Dorado), tamarind balls, and Amerindian crafts. Check your destination country's customs regulations before packing food items.
How much has Guyana changed with the oil boom?
Dramatically. Oil production reached 900,000 barrels per day by 2025. You'll see new malls (Giftland, MovieTowne, Amazonia), international chains, massive construction, new roads, and many more cars. However, traffic is now much worse, and prices have risen significantly. Expect sticker shock.
How do I handle family expectations about money?
Communicate honestly about your finances before arriving. Living abroad is expensive, and you're not necessarily wealthy. Decide what you can afford to give before your trip. It's okay to help with specific needs rather than giving cash. You're not obligated to solve generational problems in one visit.
Is it safe to drive in Guyana?
Driving in Guyana can be challenging. Traffic is heavy, especially in Georgetown. Driving is on the left side. Aggressive driving, speeding, and sudden stops are common. If you're not comfortable, use taxis or hire a driver. Always wear seatbelts - it's the law and it's enforced.
Welcome Home
Whether it's been 5 years or 50, whether you're coming for a wedding, a funeral, or just because your heart needed to be there - welcome back. Guyana is changing, but it's still your homeland. May your visit be filled with the food you've been craving, the people you've been missing, and the sense of belonging you didn't know you needed.
Plan Your VisitLast updated: January 2026. This guide was written specifically for members of the Guyanese diaspora returning home to visit. For general tourist information, see our Ultimate Guyana Travel Guide or Things to Do in Georgetown.